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FAQ
What do I need in order to
start fencing? If the form doesn't work for you, use the 'webmaster' button to the left to submit your question. What do I need in order to start fencing? Wear comfortable clothes: t-shirts, sweats, warmups, etc. Jeans and shorts are okay for the intial lessons. Sneakers, tennis shoes, or similar are the best footwear to start out with. No sandals, boots, or bare/stocking feet. The coach will go over the fencing equipment and clothing as part of the first class and will help you order what you need. Do I... ...need special shoes? While there are shoes specifically made for fencing, there are several different types of athletic shoes that will also work just fine. The key things to look for are: soles that won't slide on gym floors; good cushioning in the heel; support; and comfort. Court shoes (racquetball, volleyball, squash, etc.), indoor track or soccer shoes, even wrestling shoes (generally require sole inserts for comfort) are frequently used, as are standard athletic or tennis shoes. ...have to wear knickers? Knickers (aka 'those goofy pants') are not required for lessons or for fencing at the club but they are required for USFA competitions. But they're definitely more comfortable than jeans or sweats, especially in the summer! Can
I wear baseball/football pants instead of knickers?
These don't have the required
10cm overlap with the jacket in order to be legal for
competition. (In other words, when you're en garde, the
'pants' need to come high enough up on your ribs that the jacket and
pants overlap by at least 10cm.) Not to mention most knickers
have an extra layer of material on the tops of the thighs for added
protection. How
do I... ...wash my mask? Usually the mesh won't need more than a wipe-out with a damp cloth. Most masks have removeable liners for the bib that can be tossed in the washing machine. Some people like to give a shot of Febreeze or similar to the lining and pads now and then, it's up to you. For an overall washing though, you can put your mask in the dishwasher -- the dishwasher should be empty aside from your mask. Turn off the heat-dry option to protect any plastic trim on your mask in case you don't notice the rinse cycle end. Remove your mask from the dishwasher, roll the bib in a towel and squeeze it to remove as much water as possible, then set the mask on the counter to dry. Turn the mask every so often so that any water trapped in trim can escape. You can also wash your mask by ducking it (bib and all) in a bucket of sudsy water and working suds through the bib and lining. Then rinse it well (a bucket of clean water, in the tub or shower, etc.). Pat dry, roll the bib in a towel to squeeze out as much water as possible, then air dry as above. ...wash my glove? Some vendors make washable gloves that can be tossed in the washing machine. (If the glove has any color on it, it's strongly suggested that it not be washed with your fencing whites or they might be fencing pinks/baby blues/greys when the load's done!) When in doubt, contact the vendor. If your glove is not washable, take it out of your bag when you get home and let it air dry. A bit of standard leather care on a reasonable basis should take care of most issues. By the way, that hole on the bottom side of your hand is supposed to be there. Honest. (It's for the body cord to pass through when you fence with a scoring box.) ...wash my lamé? For starters, never fold your lamé, it will cause the wires to fray and break prematurely. If you need to pack it, roll it in a towel first. To wash it, use cool water and Woolite (or similar) and dilute ammonia (about a capful per gallon of water). Gently but thoroughly swish the lamé around in this then rinse and rinse and rinse. Then rinse it a couple more times and hang to dry on a plastic hangar (not in the sun). ...bend
my blade? You'll
notice that most fencers have a downward bend in their foil
blades. (The maximum legal amount of bend is less than 1 cm,
by the way.)
This bend helps prolong the life of the blade by encouraging it to flex
in the same direction every time you hit. Of course, it
doesn't hurt matters any that it also keeps your tip just that little
bit closer to target area! ...unkink my blade? If your blade gets kinked or it starts to curve in the wrong direction (holy S-curve, Batman!), you can use the same techniques as above to return it to the proper form. It's important that kinks and bad curves be fixed quickly to help reduce the risk of the blade snapping and possibly injuring someone. NOTE: You may notice that the blade is bent at the base, right as it comes out of the bellguard. This is generally all right -- it's called the 'cant' or 'set' of the blade and is intended to keep the point on target and your hand and wrist in a proper, comfortable position. To see if the set (bent or no) is good for your hand, go en garde, pick a point in front of you, close your eyes, and extend. Then open your eyes and see where the point of your blade is versus the spot you picked; the two should be close. If you have questions about this or need help changing the set of a blade, ask an instructor. ...get rust off of my blade? The easiest way to keep your blades from rusting is to avoid leaving your sweaty clothing in the bag with your blades. (This also keeps your rusty blades from leaving orange stripes on your clothing, oddly enough.) That being said, if you do find your blades in need of some polishing up, use a piece of steel wool, a Scotch-Brite pad, or a strip of very fine grit emery paper to rub the rust off of the blade. Once the blade is clean, a very light coat of 3-in-1 oil (we're talking one or two drops of oil period on the cloth) or a quick rub with a paste car wax will help it stay that way if you insist on putting your wet gear with your blades.
The coach also always has a hard copy of the rules at the club so you can look up questions. |